![]() I still have a good supply of the old Dragon formula in one pint bottles. Last time I checked it was offered only in Gallon sizes, which is awkward-it would take a long, long time to use that much, but may be worth getting some nevertheless. But I would order the Camelot brand instead. These companies now offer a liquid copper fungicide whose active ingredient is something called "copper soap." I don't clearly understand what this is or whether it would work. The one by Dragon worked much better in a sprayer, but after each session, the sprayer would have to be thoroughly cleaned. Also, of the two brands I used (as I said before, now discontinued) the one by Bonide gummed up the sprayer fairly quickly. The spray is hard to direct accurately, so much is wasted that way, but rather than take any risk climbing a tree unnecessarily, I have sprayed. ![]() ![]() I have applied it with sprayers to fairly high places. You are right on both counts-it would have prevented the rot, and yes, it is difficult to apply and re-apply to places high up, and often impractical. Bordeaux mixture contains copper, but my experiments with it did not work. I tried one or two other fungicides, including Captan. The wood on the surface of the cuts I made is as fresh and hard as they day they were cut after as much as 25 years. It has been successful in all cases.Īlso, over time I realized that this fungicide worked to prevent bacterial rots as well as fungal rots. It is a surface treatment only.Īfter I had success with the pine trees, I used it on a variety of other kinds of trees, including hardwoods. It has some mild toxicity to sapwood, so should not be over applied and/or allowed to pool in depressions. This fungicide will not kill entrenched fungal infections, and will not work if the wound to the trunk goes down to the ground. Concentrations of the essential ingredients vary and I did not attempt to standardize my applications. I applied the fungicide mixed with some water-maybe 3 parts water to one part fungicide-with a paintbrush. Most of the cuts I made have been covered over by new wood by now, but a few are still open. Without treatment, most of these had fungal infections in two years, and in four or five years would have obvious rot with softening/disintegration of the wood.īut those treated with liquid copper fungicide-and re-treated every year or two-have shown no sign of any rot or softening of the wood for as much as 25 years. Some of these were 10 inches or more long and six or more inches wide. These commonly split apart, so where I could, I cut one side off, leaving rather large ugly wounds. In areas where there were white pine, a good number of them had forks in the trunk fairly low down. ![]() Here is my informal data: About 25 years ago when I bought an addition to my timberland with plantations of pine and spruce. But one company I know of is still producing something similar: SePRO offers something called “Camelot.” There may be others. Unfortunately these have both been discontinued and replaced by new formulas. I have been using for about 25 years mixtures of “copper salts of fatty rosin acids.” These used to be available in two popular brands of liquid copper fungicide-one by Dragon, and another by Bonide. I have found that these fungal rot diseases are easily preventable with the use of a special liquid copper fungicide. These fungal rots often enter where the bark has been knocked off the trunk and/or where there have been large pruning cuts. Many trees are seriously weakened and have their lives shortened by fungal rots entering the trunk. ![]()
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